Pro Controller X:

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Pro Controller X (also pronounced Pro Controller Cross) is a Wii U pro controller modified to use act as an 8BitDo Lite 2. It adds Gyro controls, and native Switch (and PC) support to the Wii U Pro Controller. It uses an 8BitDo Lite 2 Controller for the hardware, and shows up as a regular "Pro Controller" in Bluetooth to devices like a PC and Switch. I picked the 8BitDo Lite 2 specifically, as it had all the functionality I wanted, while being designed on a 2-layer PCB. Using GIMP, I was able to reverse-engineer the schematics with some scans of the board. The PCB was then designed within KiCAD, using scans of the Wii U Pro Controller PCB to ensure that the board size and placement was accurate.

This project was built for the Bitbuilt Summer Building Contest 2023. Originally it was entered to give myself a deadline to finish, and was designed to be a shorter project than usual, giving me a small project during College. During the project, I tracked everything on Github. Files are released "as-is", and I will not provide support for this.

The project won second place, being one of the few projects that finished.





Rev 1.0.0 - Initial Release - Accidentally mixed up VCC and GND on the right stick PCB

Rev 1.0.1 - Currently unreleased. Fixed issue from Rev 1.0.0


Instructions for this project are not available.

All Files are available on the Github

Please note that some 0402 resistors and LEDs are needed, either from the Wii U Pro Controller, or Digikey, these are:

The below components will need to be ordered from Digikey

Can I buy this?

Not really, if you're really interested, you may contact me, but I may not be willing to sell. Please note that I don't have them in stock, so I cannot guarantee anything.


Please note that the reverse engineered schematics are not 100% accurate. I did not test for polarity on components (primarily transistors and diodes). The reason for this is because the components need to be transplanted by hand, and only the board needed to be completely accurate, so even with the schematic discrepencies, the board still works. When assembling, polarity should already be done from factory, so all you need to do is keep the same orientation of all components, the layout matches as closely as I possibly could.